Ojingeo-gui

Whole squid scored and grilled over charcoal, basted with a spicy-sweet gochujang sauce until gloriously caramelised.

Ojingeo-gui is one of the most evocative smells of Korean street food, a combination of charring seafood and sweet gochujang glaze that drifts from coastal fish markets and roadside stalls with an irresistible intensity. The squid is split open, scored with a cross-hatch pattern so the sauce penetrates the flesh and the pieces curl attractively when they hit the heat, and then basted repeatedly during cooking to build up layers of glossy, spicy coating. Gangwon Province on Korea's northeast coast, particularly the areas around Jumunjin and Sokcho, is considered the heartland of Korean squid fishing and grilling culture, and the region hosts an annual squid festival that draws tens of thousands of visitors. Korean grandmothers in coastal towns are often credited with the best technique — knowing exactly when to flip, how vigorously to brush the sauce, and when the moment of perfect doneness arrives — a skill observed and absorbed over decades. Dried squid is also grilled and eaten as an anju snack with drinks, but the fresh version is far more prized and considered a proper meal component. The chewy texture and bold glaze make it a favourite among younger Koreans who want something more assertively flavoured than mild fish dishes.