Yeomtong-gui

The tiny, superbly marbled cheek muscle of the pig — one of the rarest and most coveted grill cuts in Korea.

Yeomtong-gui (also called bolsal) refers to the cheek muscle of the pig, a cut so small — there is perhaps 150 to 200 grams on an entire pig — that it commands extraordinary prices at specialist Korean pork grill restaurants and is frequently listed as a 'today only' special depending on availability. The muscle is one of the most constantly exercised on the animal, which gives it an intense, deep pork flavour and a fine-grained yet satisfying chew that aficionados compare to the best ibérico pork cuts. Korean culinary culture has in recent decades seen a surge of interest in these tiny premium pork cuts — hang-jeong-sal, moksal, yeomtong-gui — as diners have become more knowledgeable and willing to pay for quality and rarity. The cheek cut is typically grilled quickly at high heat to prevent it from toughening, and the best technique is a 90-second sear on each side before resting briefly and cutting with scissors. It is almost always eaten with the simplest accompaniments — sesame oil, salt, and a raw green chilli — because the flavour is considered too precious to mask with heavier sauces. Regulars at specialist pork restaurants know to call ahead and reserve yeomtong specifically, as it sells out within the first hour of the evening service.